Make mine a smashable Bojo!
Gamay, the grape behind Beaujolais (‘Bojo’) and the bubblegum wine known as Nouveau.
Twenty years ago, Beaujolais’ wineries were closing and its vineyards being abandoned. This wasn’t however before it enjoyed two decades of success, churning out roughly 25 million bottles of the Nouveau each year. Described as bland, chaptalised dross in the 2000s this success fell short of disaster with Nouveau sales dropping 65%. The majority of the ‘dross’ being shipped overseas to the US and Japan.
Beaujolais needed a revolution; and, to an extent, it got one. Over the past 10 years, producers have begun to clean up their farming, working with lower-yielding clones and selecting favoured terroir to emphasise quality.
On top of that, the region has capitalised on its status as the home of the natural wine movement. Beaujolais is buzzing; its wines the toast of superstar somms in trend-setting bars and restaurants. What seems to be working in the new Beaujolais’ favour is its ability to work both as a ‘vin de soif’ and in a more serious, structured style comparable to Burgundy. Cru’s such as Fleurie and the fuller structured Morgon are turning heads…
Just a year ago if you had asked me whether Beaujolais was a thing I would have replied, ‘NO’. However, with a movement towards natural winemaking and minimal intervention, a new Bojo interest has pursued.
Smashability and versatility. It’s in these aspects that Bojo has really come into its own, benefiting from the broad shift in taste towards cool-climate, lower alcohol wines that are light and quaffable, but still with that grip, sapidity and finesse.
With several tastings in London this year, we have been able to get a grasp on how far this region as come and what an interesting and sustainable vision it has.
Come and see us at Love Wine and we will introduce you to the new Beaujolais. With winemakers such as Julien Sunier on the shelves you won’t be disappointed.
- Will Berresford